Tucked away in the heart of Derbyshire’s Peak District, the picturesque village of Eyam might look like your typical charming English village, with its stone cottages, rolling green hills, and a delightful little tea shop or two.
However, it holds a dark and quite shocking past. I’ve always known it as Eyam, The Plague Village, and have often vowed to visit. Its streets still tell tales of sacrifice, resilience, and a battle against one of the deadliest diseases in human history. This week, I shall spend three nights in Eyam as a base for a Peak District break, but have spent the day exploring this fascinating, historic part of Derbyshire.
A Village Frozen in Time
Eyam is a small village with a long history. Back in 1665, the bubonic plague arrived here, carried in a bundle of flea-infested cloth from London. The tailor’s assistant, George Viccars, opened it and discovered it was damp and ridden with fleas. Within days, he was dead, and not long after, more people began to fall ill. It became clear that the village was dealing with something much more sinister than a common cold. Instead of fleeing and potentially spreading the disease further, the villagers made a decision that would define them and Eyam forever—they voluntarily quarantined themselves to stop the plague from spreading to nearby communities.
This incredible act of self-sacrifice saved countless lives but came at a devastating cost to the village itself. A walk around modern-day Eyam underlines how devastating – there are countless cottages with green plaques on the outside, outlining which villagers died. In all, more than 260 are thought to have died, from a population of little more than 300.
The nearby village of Stoney Middleton played a crucial role in helping Eyam survive during the quarantine. Residents from there provided food and supplies. They left these goods at designated “plague stones” on the outskirts of Eyam, where Eyam villagers would collect them after leaving payment in vinegar-filled holes (believed to disinfect the coins).
Emmot, mentioned in the image above, is the subject of a tragic love story centred on the village. Emmot, a young woman from Eyam, was in love with Rowland Torre, who lived in the nearby village of Stoney Middleton. When the plague struck and the villagers made the decision to quarantine, it meant that Emmott and Rowland, who were likely engaged, could no longer be together. Despite this, Rowland refused to stay away and continued to visit the outskirts of Eyam, where they would see each other from a distance, unable to touch or speak closely for fear of infection. These two young lovers would simply look at each other, silent for fear of alerting anyone.
As the months passed, the plague claimed the lives of many in Eyam, including Emmot’s family. Despite the tragedy surrounding her, she continued to meet Rowland from afar, offering a silent but powerful testament to their love. However, one day in April 1666, she failed to appear at their usual meeting spot. Rowland, unaware of her fate, continued to wait for her, but she never came again. Eventually, he realized the heartbreaking truth—Emmot had succumbed to the plague, leaving him to mourn her loss from afar.
Where to Visit Today
The Plague Cottages
The best place to start your journey is at the Plague Cottages, a row of houses where some of the first victims of the outbreak lived. A small plaque outside one of the homes tells the tragic story of the tailor’s assistant who unwittingly brought the plague to Eyam. It’s sobering to think about how such an ordinary delivery ended up sealing the fate of an entire village.
These cottages are still inhabited today, and it felt wrong to take photos, but each one has a sombre green plaque outlining who died and when.
Eyam Church and the Boundary Stones
Eyam’s parish church, St. Lawrence’s, is another must-visit. Inside, you’ll find the tomb of Catherine Mompesson, the wife of the village’s reverend, who succumbed to the plague while caring for the sick. Outside the village, you’ll find the famous Boundary Stones—markings where outsiders left food and supplies in exchange for coins soaked in vinegar (thought to prevent infection). It’s a stark reminder of how the village managed to survive while being completely cut off from the world.
Riley Graves
A short walk from the village leads to the Riley Graves, where Elizabeth Hancock buried her husband and six children over just eight days. The fact that she carried out this heartbreaking task alone while avoiding infection herself is nothing short of astonishing. The graves stand as a poignant symbol of the immense personal losses suffered by the people of Eyam.
Mompesson’s Well
Located just outside the village, this well played a key role in Eyam’s self-imposed isolation. It was used as a safe drop-off point for food and medicine, with people from neighbouring villages leaving supplies in exchange for the vinegar-soaked coins. Even today, standing by the well, you can almost feel the eerie weight of history pressing down.
A Lively Village with a Dark Past
Despite its tragic history, modern-day Eyam is a welcoming place with plenty to see and do beyond its plague-related sites. The village is home to a number of lovely cafés and pubs where you can grab a bite to eat or enjoy a traditional English cream tea. I can recommend a brew at the Village Green cafe, and hopefully, on the way back from Mam Tor tomorrow, there will be one I can confidently recommend for breakfast!
The Eyam Museum is reportedly well worth a visit, offering a deep dive into the village’s past with fascinating exhibits on the plague and life in the 17th century. For those who love the outdoors, Eyam also serves as a great base for exploring the stunning Peak District, which is what the next couple of days holds for me. Mam Tor for sunrise is on the agenda, as is a run along the entire length of the famous Monsal Trail.
In terms of where to stay, I booked a late deal on AirBnB, at Weaver’s Cottage. The host, Karl, has been brilliant so far, and the cottage is really well equipped. I got a great deal, £75 per night, and that’s for a two-bedroom cottage with a log burner. The WiFi is good, too, so I can watch the Imps tomorrow night! It’s also next door to one of the village’s historic pubs, The Miner’s Arms, which has a tale of it’s own to tell – it’s supposed to be haunted by the ghosts of two little girls who perished in a fire. I hope they don’t come to visit; I am terrified of little girl ghosts.
Alternative Places To Stay
For those who enjoy the atmosphere of a traditional English inn, the aforementioned Miners Arms and The Barrel Inn are said to provide a welcoming retreat with comfortable rooms and hearty meals. The Miners Arms, located in the heart of the village, is known for its warm hospitality and delicious breakfast, while The Barrel Inn, a 4-star establishment, offers spectacular views over the surrounding countryside, making it a perfect choice for a relaxing stay.
Visitors seeking a more personal and intimate experience may prefer Innisfree Cottage, a highly rated bed and breakfast offering garden views, free Wi-Fi, and a famously delicious breakfast. Similarly, Bretton Cottage, located just outside Eyam, provides a tranquil retreat with private entrances and allergy-free rooms, ensuring a peaceful getaway in the countryside.
For those who prefer self-catering accommodation, Memorial Cottage is a wonderful option. This Grade II listed holiday home retains many of its original features, including exposed beams and a real fireplace, creating a cozy and authentic atmosphere. Dog-friendly (although they haven’t met our dog just yet, so that could easily change!) and centrally located, it’s an excellent choice for families or couples looking to immerse themselves in the history and charm of Eyam.
Budget-conscious travelers may consider staying at YHA Eyam, a hostel set in an old manor house, providing affordable yet comfortable accommodation. It’s a great base for hikers, history enthusiasts, and solo travelers looking to explore the village and surrounding Peak District landscapes without breaking the bank.
